MOMA and other bits

We definitely decided on a more low key approach today. It is rainy and Our 7 day subway pass has run out so a short walk to the indoor MOMA modern art gallery is the go . In fact today I realised for the first time how close our hotel is to the empire stare building ( one block) . On the way i bought a new hat to stop the rain  hitting my glasses ( a 229 .00 hat reduced to 29.00  can it only happen in NY ? ) we start at the gallery queuing outside ( in the rain - now why didn't we get one if those NY city passes??) fortunately it didn't take too long. We are up on the 5th floor very quickly where the good stuff starts according to the lonely planet via tour leader H . They suggested checking out just a few iconic paintings and it was good advice because the whole thing is over whelming other wise. 

We didn't finish there until after 2 so back to hotel for a rest before the stevie wonder concert at Maddison square garden. 

Tour leader H does manage to fit in a quick shopping spree first ( only because the shops were mentioned in the lonely planet guide ) and he actually buys something - NY continues to amaze . We went to the georgeous children's book shop  Books of wonder ..  ( also recommended by Margo L )  and a designer shoe ware house where he could buy runners ( sadly no longer available in Deni and you can see why when you see shops like this) 

We just make Stevie wonder as Tour leader H  under estimated starting time; ( you can't be perfect every time) but the show is fantastic even sitting back in the " nose bleeds" as eccy would say. He has the crowd of thousands all up dancing. There is big band and violin orchestra playing. In between tunes the 64 year old was introducing family members , his pregnant wife ( definitely not having triplets ),  challenging LA and NY to a race to become the most accessible cities in world and the  denouncing the pro gun lobby and laws. Things have got to change ..the message seemed well received by this crowd. He played for 2 1/2 hours so we felt like we got our money's worth

Home to bed. Tomorrow is our last day in NY before we fly home in evening . Not sure what tour leader H planned( but I dare say it won't be restful) 

Bike ride

We thought we 'd be gone for a couple of hours. ( I had refused to do the guided one because 7 hours was just way too long) . We found the blazing saddles bike shop on pier 75 on the Hudson River . A nice leisurely bike ride by the river I thought, but tour leader H had a lot of items to tick off. So we head to battery point to see the Statue of Liberty .

 We then had to bike back through some hairy traffic to get on the bike path across Brooklyn bridge. It was extremely busy with walkers . I would hate to see what it's like on a weekend day during the season with the sun out ( because overcast Wednesday in nov it was packed). Riding was definitely the way to go much less busy on the bike path , although we had to keep an eye out for the wayward walkers.

 We get lost in Brooklyn heights trying to find the pizza shop recommended by the kid at the bike shop ( we haven't had pizza yet) . But still a very pleasant ride on the esplanade . Old piers have been turned into parks and  play grounds with great views of the Manhatten skyline.

The pizza was well worth it when we finally found it ( julianos pizza) but we are now feeing pretty sluggish on the bikes and have got to get home. Back over the Manhatten bridge ( I made Harley stop at a gorgeous book shop in Brooklyn "Dumbo" ( area of NY ) because I haven't seen too many in NY . 

The Manhattan bridge was much quieter and we end up in china town on what the  tourist map says is a dedicated bike path but you are really riding around in the middle of traffic.

. I nearly went on strike here but tour leader H said no pikers allowed and we were also now on a time watch . Where did the hours go ? We had to be back to the bike shop and Harley's credit card by 6 pm and it's about 4 pm and Central Park the final highlight is no where to be seen.  After much stopping and starting on ( my part anyway ) and a very slow count down of the streets  ( sometimes those numbers can be annoying) we found Central Park and got out of the traffic. ( phew) . But we still had to get back to the Hudson River bike path . That's why travelling with a tour guide is so great . The map is ever at his finger tips and he finds our way home . I am too busy dodging cars to worry about directions . We get on to the bike path finally which now has river on one side and a six lane highway on the other. People are walking their dogs here. I tell you  Eddie is totally living it up in the Deni forest . It is now 5:05 pm getting dark and we only have 50 streets to go. Tour leader H says we will do it easy and we do because I insist we pick up the speed now we are in a relatively safe bike path.  You only have to dodge other riders  , who mostly have flashing lights ,  walkers and dogs . ( Easy peasy  ) . Back to the bike shop at 5:30 . We were the last ones in. Only a ten block walk back to hotel  where we both promptly collapse on the bed. ( no off broadway show tonight) 

The big Gig

We are up early today to fit in H  3 hour tour of  lower Manhatten before we meet eccy for lunch 

( these little men have been keeping me on my toes as we walk the city - you can't cross the street without them except when tour leader H says it's ok which can catch you by surprise and does seem to defeat their purpose) 

We are doing the ground zero tour today and you need to bring a box of tissues particularly for St. Paul's chapel .

 The church was used by 9/11 rescue and support workers as a central resting point and has become a simple and moving memorial for September 11. It makes you realise how devastating an event like that would be no matter where it happened in the world except that maybe the Americans have better resources to deal with it (Off the soap box now) . The Church was also interesting because it is the oldest continually used public building in Manhattan. It survived a couple of other major disasters events like the NY city fire of 1776 when 1/4 of Manhatten burned to the ground.

We Walked past the water monuments and of course saw first of the new towers just opened day before ( why do they keep doing it? ) 

Rushed back to meet Eccy for lunch and a quick shop at Macey's department store ( No H you are not going to big gig in T shirt that seems to be covered in plane food) 

We played Spot the famous person on the way to gig at terminal 5. Jenny won with a glimpse of John Cleese leaving a swanky hotel. 

We get to Terminal 5  And have to Queue with 3000 other dedicated fans to get in ( but hang on we do manage to get parent reserve seats in the VIP balcony  - a fairly rare reservation I believe). This gives us a great view of the Gizard boys on stage  and later on the headliner Mac demarco crowd surfing across the top of 3000 people. King gizzard as a support act were of course fantastic but the crowd was mostly here to see demarco and they went total off. The heads were moving in a  jerky waves as various bodies crowd surfed their way to the security guards who were working harder than anyone.  The stage was full of coffins for the final act . I'm not sure what that meant but great to see all the gizzards and entourage (  Nic and Liam )  helping to set it all up . 

Of course we loved king gizard the best  ( their light show was amazing ) . Even the kids going home on the subway commented on how great they were. It was lucky the proud parents could get their heads through the sub way doors as we lapped up the left over glory of the night. 

Moving house

We moved location today without too much hassle . We paid our airbnb maid a tip ( their hourly rate is appalling ) and walked to the subway. We got off at  34th street and headed in wrong direction but quickly turned around when we got to 36 ( yes I love these numbers). We are at the Herald square hotel on 31st street w in mid town  not far from Times Square ( definitely target the tourist territory - photo with a Disney cartoon icon obligatory ). 

Tour leader H is in 7th heaven because we are very close to lots of walks in his favourite lonely planet guide. ( Yes his not so secret favourite tool of trade) . We start with the high line ,  an old train line 2 stories up , which has been converted to a public park and walk way 

We walked to the end and began our lonely planet tour of west village  and Greenwich village where we find some very important cultural icons like the " friends " building and the stoop where a lot of action from " sex and the city " takes place . 

(We had to donate to a lost dogs home for the privilege of taking this photo - they love their dogs here and seem to have nearly as many pet shops as iconic fashion stores) 

We keep walking until we find Washington square and the pub , Stonewall Inn, where the gay rights activist movement started in the late 1960s 

We found my favourite swedish designer shop. ( yeah there's one in NY as well. ) and pretty well most of the day has gone and we still have washing to do . Stuff like that still has to be done no matter where your at ( and if you have a husband who didn't seem to bring any clothes ) . We cruise Times Square while the clothes are in the dryer - bright lights and Micky mouse costumes galore and I am pleased we are staying in the much more sedate Herald Square. 

We eat Korean for dinner . Our hotel backs onto Korean way. The food choices continue to boggle the mind and tummies but the prices have definitely got higher the closer to Times Square we get! 

Subway theatre

Locked in a packed carriage on a Saturday night heading from mid town. We have the homeless man who has sorted his life out but just needs a bit if cash for tonight's dinner for his kid ( ala denzal Washington ) ; we have the seedy looking " blessing hands  " group giving away very unnutritious white bread sandwiches for a donation or your support and we have the white rapper espousing on everything from drugs to Guantanamo bay all in one poem . He definitely deserved a donation but the hands just couldn't find the wallet in time before the next stop where they all jump out . 

Had plenty of opportunities to donate today though at the gospel church service we attended today in Harlem. Music was amazing and our tour leader was full of "yo brothers" and   info about the influence of the church on Harlem . His story about the Ozzie , Peter Norman , who stood with the black runners on the podium at the 1972 Olympics story bought a heart warming tear to our eyes and certainly  helped open our wallets for an even bigger tip at the end ( ok the Ozzie cynic cannot rest) . We cheered on the New York marathon runners as they ran through Harlem 

The tour ended up at the Apollo theatre where many black entertainers got their start ( Michael Jackson , James brown, Aretha franklin  ) . Our tour leader Neil, espoused his love of Michelle Obama and described how she will help make ensure the next president of the US is a woman. 

Then finally he recommended a great cafe where we got to try some very spicy chicken, gumbo , sweet pumpkin. 

http://www.soulfood.com/msfr/menu.html

We headed in mid town for afternoon. ( tour leader H said no time for after noon nap - darn) we have to do the 3 hour lonely planet walk step by step . But of course we immediately diverted when I saw New York City library first. . We couldn't go into reading room 

Though because ceiling was caving in. 

We walked the libray walk ( back to front much to our intrepid tour leaders frustration ) with famous writers quotes engraved into concrete.  We Found  the Chrysler building foyer ( no ordinary folk can get past security) and then Empire State Building. Tour leader H bragged that he had managed to get us there for the sunset ( but it was just luck really and change from day light saving)  . 

We loved the Empire State Building.  It helped put everything in perspective for tour leader H and I was just pleased we had paid the extra money to go higher as the observation desk on the 103 floor is inside  and there fore so much warmer than the outside deck on the 87 th

floor 

Back home to eat japanese for dinner . 

Touristy stuff

Tour leader H had to crack the whip today as he had booked an 11 :00 am tour of the MET ( metropolitan museum of art)  and the late night meant the tour group was a little sluggish getting on the road . The weather is a little dampish ( should I be alarmed lots of people are wearing gumboots) but we make it to the Met in time to meet our Hack tour Guide Jessye( the walk this time is about 20 min) Jessye ( yes that is the correct spelling and possibly reflects her youth) gives us a taster that starts in Ancient Egypt and ends up with the European masters). The Met describes it self as encyclopaedic and it seems we probably could have spent the whole week there and still only touch the surface. 

We headed for home about 3 pm ready for a nana nap that took us to late after noon. I said to tour leader H we are slacking off we have only done one thing today . So he got us moving ( his repututation is at stake) and we knocked off Little Italy , China town , the Rocker feller centre and grand central station in one ( now freezing cold ) night .

Yes being on the 67th floor balcony of a building on a cold and rainy night is a little challenging but atleast there were no queues and the lights looked just as bright from the inside. ( Tour leader H had a little trouble keeping me on the balcony, ) . Early night tonight back at the ranch by 10 :30 pm 

Halloween in new york

We checked  out the Guggenheim museum  as our first item of the day . It is only a ten minute walk from our apartment however we nearly missed the early start as planned because we seemed to be awake most of the night. The giant upstairs  ( getting bigger ever day. ) seemed to be moving furniture again just as we were finally about to nod off.  The Guggenheim featured exhibition by post ww2 modernist artists  German artists' group Zero (1957–66) founded by Heinz Mack and Otto Piene. Their work consisted of lots of nails and lighting shows ( electrician meets builder ) and monochrom painting ( yes sometime you actually think I could have done that) . One favourite was the circle of sand being continually raked by a little inventions one of our neighbours back in Deni would love. 

We then Headed off to Grand central station with hope of meeting Eccy but instead ended up on the east side  for a quick family catch up and discussion about the Halloween rendezvous ( I'm scared) but excitement is mounting in the streets. What we are wearing to Seemed to be the resounding cry every time I casually mentioned we were going to a Halloween gig where my sons band was playing( no it's not that hard to work into conversations if you can get past the where are you from opener?) . I started to get alarmed when people ( well mainly girls. ) shrieked in horror when I said I wasn't real sure I kind of have a black dress???

We went into a shop where the assistant Audrey had seen king gizard perform . I felt obligated to buy of course and she was very keen to find out the whereabouts of their next gig but even she was a little awed when I said near a cemetery. Should I be worried? 

Everyone  else in New York seemed fairly unconcerned as we headed out in the night surrounded by ghouls , goblins and cross dressers and police ( are they dressed up or real) . There  is lots of alarming eye makeup that looks like people have been in a brawl before they headed off for the evening . Getting to the gig was a bit scarey . 

We are staying along way from Queens  ( gig location ) and getting off the subways in downtown broadway was not a good move apparently ( so now you tell us) . We get to the gig ok ( with only a little bit of panic running and suppressed anxiety after hearing one of my fellow subway passengers tell his phone that he urgently needed a gun ) . New York is quite relaxing really ??

The gig was fun and great to catch up with the band and their mates. Negotiating the subway home was not nearly as scarey as we found a train station very close to the gig and everyone on train was still in " happy Halloween " mode . But still very glad to be finally tucked up in bed at 2:00 am . 

Finding the boys

Eccy was the main item on today's itinerary ( for me any ways  - Harley's was getting his phone to work ) . On the way we walked around Jackie Onassis lake in Central Park . 

We Navigated the subway to find Eccy and Nic steyger in Brooklyn ( or I should say Harley navigated while I bought up the rear - No you are not allowed to look in any of those cute little vintage shops on the way to the  station) . We caught the M train on the number 4 train line. Yes I love how everything  is numbered including the streets. It seems to bring order to the Chaos. Even I seemed to be able to find my way around . We found eccy and Nic in Brooklyn and caught up over lunch ( tuna melt wrap yummy)

We then Walked around Williamsburg down Bedford street on Nics recommendation. The street art was pretty amazing. I used the local pool's rest room which added to the homey feel of the place ( public toilets are not easy to find in New York) .  We accidently found  " Rough trade " records. Yippee that's Doms present sorted. ! We Caught the East  river ferry back to Wall Street and bought our Halloween costumes ( an essential for Eric 's gig apparently  ) and what better place to buy it then the Manhattan financial district where many of the worlds horror stories seem to start. 

Back home to upper east side to check out the local opp shops . They are very groovy but then so is everything  in NY  according to us new arrivals . 

Finding the upper east side

After a flight that seemed to go on forever. ( thank heavens for that restored inflight entertainment ) we arrive in New  york. We did customs in LA with only a couple of hiccups. ( don't take the apple from the plane I have now learnt) . It is raining as we queu for taxis at JFK and we can't seem to get hold of our contact for the airbnb apartment . Tour leader H is looking a little stressed. We arrive at our apartment but have no way of getting in. Another very friendly resident directs us to the nearest Starbucks with free wifi and we finally made contact with our hosts. 

Apartment basic but clean and welcoming  and a great location  it seems ( see below) Although it took us a while to make contact with the owner that was more our ineptitude at understanding addresses( yes we already knew the flat number but didn't realise ) and working out how our phones work ( hopefully H will be able to ring someone before we leave ) . We are Close to lots of cafés wth every ethic cuisine ( Vietnamese first night and Mexican tonight). I'm not  sure about the giant who lives upstairs tho ' . It sounds like he / she is moving furniture in army boots) 

New York groupies

We are at Melbourne airport and the pilot of our flight has just announced that the inflight entertainment system has finally been fixed. There is a cheer from the crowd. The thought of 15 hours on a plane with only tour leader H to look at was a bit daunting. This is the book I chose to buy with my $30 compensation voucher. A Win win situation

Copenhagen revisited

We travelled from Bergen to Oslo for 7 hours. It was a truly picturesque journey with lots of fjords and snow covered mountains coming right down to the railway line. We were travelling on our Eurail but lots of people do it as part of a tourist trip Norway in a nutshell . We of course didn't have to do that because we have our own nutshell trip to contend with. 

Our Accommodation in Oslo was upgraded but not much time to take advantage of it. Tour leader H had us up at the crack of dawn so we could have the full buffet breakfast ( and sneak in a bit of food for lunch) and still catch the train by 7:01 am. The journey was uneventful ( ie snoozing and view watching ) until Harley decided to engage in conversation with the other Aussies onboard ( no not me) and was growled at for talking in the quiet carriage ( how on earth did we get in there) 

We had to pick up Doms back pack at the Copenhagen railway station .This experience probably deserves   a blog entry of its own. Let us just say that the gentleman helping us was a little slow off the mark to understand what we wanted and sent us on a merry little round about with money , ATMs, coins, tokens and how much we could put through the locker machine before you can open your locker , when suddenly and miraculously he produced Doms bag from behind the counter ... ( not the locker where we it had left it 3 weeks before) 

Our posh hotel turned out to be pretty basic but clean and close to everything including a few of the down and outs who love to hang out near transport hubs. ( no I don't mean us )

We took our traditional bike tour lead by Bike Mike and 30 of his followers 

bikecopenhagenwithmike.dk/

- yes it was rather a large group and at the end when a few people got lost and hence were late back Bike Mike said don't worry  he wouldn't charge extra for the time on the bikes. Inspite his tendency to overload his tour and see it as amusing, Bike Mike did have some great ideas and stats about the way Danes live - lots of stuff about women leading the way in everything from government to school performance  and the plan to have Denmark totally fossil fuel free and energy self sufficient by 2050. He rode us passed the statues of the Danish philosopher    Soren Kierkegaard the father of exitensalism;

And  Danish Lutheran minister ... N. F. S. Grundtvig  a philosopher and educator who influenced a popular education movement using poetry , song and creativity as the basic tenants of education and started the " folk " high school movement. They are both revered as key influences in shaping "the modern Dane ". 

We checked out where the Royal family  live including the spot where you can see " our Mary" riding two of her kids home in school each day in a bike with trolley arrangement . He suggested the Royals are Denmark's number one tour attraction and great for business. The government is made up compromise parties ( only minority parties and coalitions can gain power ). He also gave  some great recommendations for lunch (fresh food markets and the open Danish sandwich , strawberries and white asparagus . ) 

We had lunch with another couple from the bike tour who had been visiting their son in Israel and were on their way back to California . They put us to shame immediately because they had their  three things for the day  welland truly sorted.  Tour leader H and I had been slacking off on that front so after lunch it was straight to the shops. ( It counts as a tourist activity in Copenhagen because Stroget street is the biggest strip shopping centre in Europe ( and no not because they take all your money ) 

We did find another Marimekko shop. 

" Haven't we been in one if these in another country?" tour  leader H says . Ahh but this one is having  a sale although the only thing I really wanted to buy wasn't on sale - of course! It was here that I also discovered my wallet was missing. ( after some frantic searching  ) Ho hum Harley will have to pay .

Unfortunately it didn't turn up so I had to cancel the cards - initially thought it could be a good savings measure until I realised that I still had a spare one back at the hotel  - good travel tip don't carry all your cards and money in the one spot. 

We spent the evening wandering the city - peaceful without so many bikes or cars around however there were a lot of teenage kids wearing white sailor hats ( obviously celebrating ) . Bike Mike had informed us this is kind of a  Danish version of schoolies except maybe a bit more civilised ( kids wearing the white hats had got a place a university ) 

Day 2 

Bike ride to Louisiana modern art gallery about  a 40 k ride . Beautiful except it started to rain half way so we got soaked but worth it when we finally got to the gallery. We stopped for a hot dog ( national food) at a georgeous  harbour town where  the nice tourist information lady next door to the hotdog stand told us we were on the right track. . We only had to stop 3 times for directions. Tour leader H had forgotten his map so we followed the sea from the famous Little mermaid statue and it seemed to work.

The art gallery was spectacular and dry in side. . You could view the beautiful landscaped gardens and sculptures from the glassed in walk ways. 

The two special artist exhibition on at this time were Phillip Guston ( American painter )  and Hilma AF  Klint theosophy art ( preoccupation with spirituality and the occult transferred into her art - weird philosophies but produced amazing psychedelic art works ) 

We Train ride home with bike in tow . We felt very Danish until I had to drag a heavy commuter bike up steep railway stairs than I was back to being a flabby flat land Ozzie wondering how people do this every day often with a bike trailer as well. Good grief ???

That evening we Climbed to the top of tower in parliament buildings. ( A good city view recommended by Bike Mike and we also thought it would be good to see where Borgen hangs out ) 

We Kept out bikes because Copenhagan is a  beautiful place to ride around after hours when there is no other traffic  ( and of course it is day light until 11 pm. ) 

Our final Dinner ( before air plane food ie ) was at a very hip joint in the meat packers district - why not ? we are very cool dudes . Yummy  ! We spent the evening reviewing  all the great food we have had over the last five weeks. The most expensive and one of the nicest was tonight but we both loved the food we bought from the Riga markets as a highlight and of course we absolutely loved trying the Malmo eateriesCarrot cakes and kafe bars recommended by Dom. We thought it would be interesting to see what we have averaged on food costs over the five weeks -but currencies were all so confusing in the end we divided by five and went with our taste buds ( and it has also of course been recorded on our waste lines) 

Got to Copenhagen airport in time to join a very long queue . No online checkin here . After a spot of last minute shopping - well what else can you do in two short hour we finally boarded the plane for home . 

We stopped at Dubai where it was 40 degrees on the tarmac but we did manage to get some sleep in our very well air conditioned hotel room . 

We discovered the inflight Free snacks and drink bar about half way through the second leg of the quantas flight and that managed to keep us amused  ( well me any way ) along with a few movie catchups until we landed ( half hour late) ; 

Back to a beautiful Melbounne winters day ( yes cold , windy and damp) oh it's good to be home!!!